Grinding instructions

Safety Instructions

When working with sanding dust, spontaneous fires or explosions can occur. Sanding dust can ignite and cause injury or damage. Always empty the sanding dust container into metal containers located outside the building!

Empty the contents of the dust container as soon as it is 1/3 full. Empty the dust container every time after using the machines. Never leave the dust container unattended when it contains sanding dust.

All sources of ignition must be completely removed from the work area! Poorly ventilated work areas can create an explosive atmosphere if flammable materials such as fuel or solvents and thinners are present!

The use of a machine with a defective cable is strictly forbidden! It can lead to an electric shock.

Keep the cable away from the lower part of the machine so that the abrasive material does not come into contact with it. Always keep the cable raised above the machine!

Using the machine in an ungrounded circuit can lead to fatalities due to electric shock. Never disconnect or disable the ground wire!

Always check that guards and covers on the machine are correctly fitted and functional.

Always wear a dust mask, safety glasses and hearing protection when using grinding machines!

General

First and foremost, for your own safety, please ensure adequate personal protective equipment by wearing safety glasses, safety shoes, hearing protection, and an appropriate dust mask when performing grinding work.

When transporting the grinding machine outdoors and on dirty surfaces inside the building, always transport it using a cart or by hand so that the machine's wheels are not damaged.

The socket to be used should be fused with at least a 16 A fuse, and the extension cable should have a cross-section of 3 x 2.5 mm², as the starting current and operating power of the parquet sander are relatively high. A cable reel should always be completely unrolled.

Always remove sanding dust bags from the machine and place them outdoors after use or during breaks, as there is a risk of spontaneous combustion.

Mandatory Subsurface Preparation

Check the floor to be treated for irregularities such as protruding screws/nails or loose objects and countersink/remove them if necessary, as this could damage the sanding drum, which would incur repair costs. The existing skirting boards should be removed so that you can sand almost up to the wall and the finish is then covered by the newly installed skirting board. Furthermore, it is usually not possible to sand right up to the skirting board with an edge sander without damaging it.

Step-by-step to a professional result

The Grinding Process in 5 Steps

Prepare grinding machine for rough grinding

Open the side flap of the belt sander, operate the red tensioning lever, and slide the sanding belt (grit 16/24/36 as required) onto the sanding drum and the lowered idler roller, so that the sanding belt remains flush with the sanding drum. Then operate the tensioning lever again, close the side flap, attach the dust bag to the suction pipe with the clamp, and connect the extension cable on both sides.

Start Grinding Machine

Make sure that the roller is not resting on the floor. To do this, pull the clutch lever at the top of the guide handle so that it engages. While holding the machine with one hand on the guide handle, quickly turn the switch to the "Start" position, wait until the dust bag has inflated, and then release the switch. It will automatically snap back to the "Operate" position and the machine is ready for use.

Grinding process starting with rough grinding

From the center of the room, slowly move the started drum sander forward, carefully lowering the sanding drum with the clutch lever. Shortly before the wall, raise the sanding drum with the clutch lever, pull the machine back in the same track, and carefully lower the sanding drum again. (Yes, back in the same track!) Repeat this process offset by half a drum width. In this manner, including diagonally to the wood grain, process the entire room. As soon as you sand nails/screws, be sure to countersink them, and when the dust bag is half full, empty it. Continue the sanding process until the wooden floor is 100% exposed. Then, use the edge sander to work the edges with the same grits.

Finishing Grinds

The following sanding operations from 60 grit to 100 grit should, if possible, be carried out with the wood grain and in the direction of light incidence. If you are working on parquet flooring with gaps, you can fill these after the 80 grit sanding pass by mixing the wood dust from the 60 and 80 grit sanding passes with "Aqua-Seal-Pafuki" liquid joint filler solution to form a paste and then applying it to the parquet floor with a trowel. Leave as little as possible on the wood surface. For large gaps, this process can be repeated, as the compound may sink during drying. Then sand the parquet surface again thoroughly with 80 grit, paying particular attention to any residues on the wood and removing them carefully. The same steps with the corresponding grits should be carried out on the edges and areas not reached with the belt sander using an edge sander. Always ensure a clean transition between the two surfaces.

Fine-tuning

In the next step, thoroughly vacuum the floor so that no sanding belt residue or other dirt remains that could cause damage or scratches to the wooden floor. Then finely sand it with a disc sander and 120 grit to create a beautiful smooth surface, which, after vacuuming again, can then be oiled/impregnated/primed and varnished.

Intermediate Sanding

This is usually done after the first coat of varnish has dried, using a rotary sander and a sanding pad, in order to break up any raised wood fibers that may have been caused by the varnishing process.

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Properly treating wooden floors:

Oiling

Before applying the oil, the wooden floor must be thoroughly prepared. For a newly laid floor or one in need of renovation, a complete sanding is necessary. This should be done in several sanding passes, with the final pass using grit 100 to 120 to create a smooth and receptive surface.

If the parquet is already oiled and only needs re-oiling, no sanding is required. In this case, a thorough cleaning of the floor is sufficient. For both new oiling and re-oiling, the entire surface must be clean, dry, and dust-free. After sanding, the room should be thoroughly vacuumed and wiped with a slightly damp, mist-damp cloth. Care must be taken not to get the wooden surface too wet, as it can swell.

First, apply the oil along the wall edges with a small brush. Then, apply it to the larger areas. For this, we prefer to use velour rollers, which allow for an even and controlled application. Alternatively, the oil can also be spread with a spatula, a wide brush, or a pad. The exact application method always depends on the respective product – therefore, please always observe the manufacturer's instructions regarding processing, application quantity, and drying time. In heavily used areas – such as hallways, kitchens, or commercially used rooms – a second oil application may be useful. This is done in the same way once the first coat has dried. Between the two applications, the surface can be smoothed with a white pad to remove raised wood fibers.

The oil should be applied evenly and without puddles. The formation of glossy spots or over-oiled areas should be avoided. Quiet, even work, preferably in the direction of the wood grain, is important.

After application, the oil must be allowed to penetrate for about 15 minutes. During this time, it soaks into the wood. For particularly absorbent floors, it may be necessary to re-oil until the surface is saturated. Afterwards, excess oil is completely removed – either with lint-free cotton cloths or with a white pad. No residue should remain on the floor, as this can become sticky or stained after drying.

After oiling, the surface must not be walked on for at least twelve hours. During drying, the room should be well ventilated, without creating drafts. Full curing usually takes seven to ten days. Only then should the floor be fully furnished or covered with carpets again.

Daily cleaning of an oiled parquet floor is done dry with a broom or vacuum cleaner. Damp mopping is only permitted with a barely damp mop and with the addition of wood floor soap or a suitable cleaning agent for oiled floors. Aggressive or degreasing cleaners should generally be avoided, as they can damage the oil layer.

Re-oiling is recommended approximately once a year, depending on use. Before re-oiling, the floor should be treated with an intensive cleaner to remove old oil residues and dirt. Afterwards, care oil is reapplied evenly.

Oil-soaked rags can spontaneously ignite and pose a significant fire risk. Therefore, they should never be left out in the open. After use, they must either be stored airtight in a metal container or soaked in water in a lidded bucket and disposed of properly.

Properly treating wooden floors:

Painting

Before applying varnish, the floor must be level, clean, and completely sanded. Old coatings or residues of old sealants must be completely removed. Deep damage should be filled with appropriate wood putty before sanding. The edges should also be freely accessible, which is why baseboards should be removed.

Sanding is done in several passes with coarse to fine grit. The final sanding should be done with 100–120 grit. Afterwards, the floor is thoroughly vacuumed and damp-wiped with a fine cloth. Residues of sanding dust would significantly impair the adhesion of the varnish.

Before the first coat of paint, a suitable primer should be applied. This improves adhesion, reduces wood roughening, and ensures a uniform appearance. The primer is applied to edges with a brush, and to large areas with a short-pile roller or paint roller – depending on the product. The drying time is usually 2 to 4 hours, with the manufacturer's specifications being decisive.

After complete drying, the primed surface is lightly sanded (grit 120–150) to remove raised wood fibers and ensure optimal adhesion for the subsequent paint application. This is followed by another thorough cleaning.

Paint application begins in the edge areas with a high-quality brush. For the main surfaces, a suitable paint roller is used – short-pile rollers with an even flow are recommended. Depending on the product, two to three coats are required. An intermediate sanding is necessary between each application to ensure a uniform surface and improve adhesion. The floor must also be thoroughly cleaned again after each sanding.

The following basic rules apply to paint application: The paint must not be processed in direct sunlight or at room temperatures above 25°C. Windows should be darkened if necessary to prevent excessively fast drying. Work quickly, in strips, and overlapping to avoid visible transitions.

The first walkability of the lacquered floor is possible after 9 to 24 hours – depending on the product. The final curing of the varnish usually takes place within 5 to 7 days. During this time, the floor should not be burdened with furniture or carpets. Heavy pieces of furniture should not be placed back on the floor until at least one week has passed.For safety, always observe the varnish manufacturer's instructions.

Parquet varnishes are available in various formulations:

One-component varnishes: Easy to apply, mostly water-based, but with limited durability.

Two-component varnishes: Consist of varnish and hardener, offering significantly higher resistance to abrasion, chemicals, and scratches.

Three-component varnishes with UV protection: Especially recommended for light-colored wood types, as they prevent darkening and offer long-term color protection.

When choosing a varnish, in addition to quality, appearance, and durability, environmental compatibility should also be considered. Modern water-based varnishes are low in solvents and emissions and are therefore particularly well-suited for living spaces.

Lacquered parquet is easy to care for. For daily cleaning, a soft broom or a vacuum cleaner with a parquet nozzle is sufficient. If necessary, it can be wiped damp – ideally with a cleaning agent specifically designed for lacquered surfaces. Harsh, abrasive, or degreasing cleaning agents are unsuitable, as they can damage the lacquer layer.

Unlike oiling or waxing, spot repairs to the lacquer are not possible. If scratches or dull spots are present, the entire surface usually needs to be sanded and re-lacquered.

We are here for you!

Should you have further questions about the workflows or our rental machines, please call us. We are here for you. The Kaditzianer team wishes you every success and a beautiful wooden surface.

If you would like a quote, simply arrange an on-site appointment with us.

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